Wednesday, January 21, 2009

"In today's sharp sparkle"

Tuesday January 20, 2009 11pm Baku, Azerbaijan

“In today’s sharp sparkle, this winter air, anything can be made, any sentence begun.
On the brink, on the brim, on the cusp -- praise song for walking forward in that light. “ – poem by Elizabeth Alexander read at Obama's inauguration.

Listen to the MUSTN'TS
from the book "Where the Sidewalk Ends" (1974) by Shel Silverstein


Listen to the MUSTN'TS, child,
Listen to the DON'TS
Listen to the SHOULDN'TS
The IMPOSSIBLES, the WON'TS
Listen to the NEVER HAVES.
Then listen close to me -
Anything can happen, child,
ANYTHING can be.

I don’t believe I have ever felt as patriotic as I have tonight. At 9pm Baku time I watched Obama become the 44th president of the United States of America, and I cried. I cried tears of joy for new change and beginnings, and tears of gratitude for those who have come before us. I know the appropriate thing for an academic to do is to doubt that change could ever really happen within this system, but I refuse to be handcuffed by fear. We have to believe that change can happen and is possible. There’s always time to be disappointed later so why start now? :-)

I ate nachos tonight in one of Baku’s Irish pubs (Murphy’s) and chatted with a Scotsman who travels around the world doing some kind of radio-training seminars (for communication on the oil rigs). And of course I was riveted to the television during the entire event at the Capitol Building, and I didn’t head home until I watched Bush fly back to Texas in the helicopter. I expressed my joy to the men standing outside the pub (in Russian I said- “Today Bush is finished, and America has a new president- Barack Obama!”), to the taxi driver, and to the man at the convenience store across the street from my apartment building. He was looking especially grumpy, so I gave him a big smile and told him about my new president!




Although today was a joyful day for the U.S., it was a sad day of mourning and remembrance here in Baku. On the 20th of January (“Black January”) they remember the day in 1990 when after rumblings of possible independence Soviet troops rolled in and killed dozens of innocent civilian protestors. The entire city goes up to “Martyr’s Avenue,” an absolutely stunning and beautiful monument that ends with a perpetual fire overlooking the city and the Caspian Sea. You could actually feel the sadness in the air. In 1991 Azerbaijan successfully declared its independence from the USSR.





This past weekend I was shown around Shirvanshah, a palace complex within Iceri Sheher (inner city . . . like old town, stare mesto). This palace was the seat of northeastern Azerbaijan’s ruling family in the Middle Ages. Its 15th century designs are still beautiful (having been renovated a bit in 2003. The intricate carvings and Arabic calligraphy were really quite stunning.

I was quite pleased to then be taken to the miniature book museum. Yes, you read that right, Baku lays claim to the world’s only museum devoted entirely to miniature books. The smallest is only 2mm and is recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records. There were very old small books, very famous small books, small books in all different languages from all different regions, tiny religious books, tiny books of poetry, etc. We had a lovely tour in Russian, which I was mostly able to follow along with. A second visit to the Martyr’s Avenue was followed by a visit to the state cemetery where I saw the very impressive grave of Heydar Aliyev, the former president and father of the current president of Azerbaijan.

On Sunday I treated myself to a nice brunch out and then wandered about in search of the Center of Contemporary Art. It was a small affair, about 3 rooms total, but there were some very striking works. Some abstract, some clearly of people, angels, animals and some intriguing sculptures.

Then I stopped into one of the carpet shops in the inner city that clearly has tourists in mind. The salesman spoke fairly good English and we haggled over prices of silk scarves for awhile, and then discussed why some people say “turn off the light” and some people say “switch off the light,” and other such nonsense. It was enjoyable but I had to be getting back home so that I could meet Mikayil and Kenan for our adventure!

Mikayil, Kenan and I set out in search of Ateshgah Fire Temple in Suraxani, very close to Baku. The site sits in a natural gas vent that was sacred to the local Zoroastrians for centuries, and the temple was constructed by Indian Shiva devotees. It was a bit challenging finding the Temple, because apparently all the roads have been updated, with new lanes, new overpasses, new bridges, etc., but no new road signs! In fact no signs at all, so you really have to know where you are going. Luckily its totally normal to just stop in the right hand lane and ask someone on the street or a cab driver for directions. After a number of fairly funny interactions with various people we found the Temple, but sadly it had just closed for the day. Despite offers of extra money if they opened up, we were refused! So . .. we set out in search of another target- Yanar Dag.


Apparently in the 13th century Marco Polo wrote something about natural gas flames spurting out from the Absheron Peninsula (where Baku is). Most stopped after oil drilling began (something about reduced pressure), but at this one place near the international airport, fire still flames out of the side of a small hill. It is about a 10m wall of fire coming out of the side of this hill completely on its own. It was amazing. I have never seen anything like this, and it ranks right up there with the exploding Gulfoss geyser in Iceland, the mud and heat of Rotarua in New Zealand, and the vast glaciers of Patagonia. Fire coming out of a mountain, people! It was awesome.
:-)

I want to make some general comments before I head off to bed:
-People honk all the time here. It drives me crazy. In the U.S. it would be considered majorly rude to honk as much as people do here, and I often wind up taking offense.
-The owner of my apartment is wonderfully nice and had me over for tea and sweets last night. I got to play with his baby daughter and his wife showed me pictures of their wedding.
-I am enjoying living alone.
-Sometimes the power goes out or there is no water. Usually this doesn’t last for too long, and it doesn’t happen very often . . . so it still surprises me when it happens.
-Sometimes the elevator (which is scary and old and I never use) gets stuck and it won’t stop opening and closing for hours.
-Every evening when I return home from work there are three cats waiting near my door. They make me miss my cats!
- I walked to the U.S. Embassy today because I had some questions. They were closed because it was an Azerbaijan national holiday. They were also closed yesterday because of Martin Luther King Jr. It seems like a rather nice life to me, to get off from work on both your own country holidays and from the country within you work!

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I read your blog quite often. It's obvious you're whimsical and terribly intelligent. I wish I had your desire, talent, and apparent thirst for the world. You've gained with good reason someone dear to me. Good luck with all of your travels and in everything you do.

Наталья said...

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Azerbaycan