Cold and Rainy Istanbul

Posted: Jan 10 5:30pm

Jan 2nd 7:15pm Ataturk Airport, Istanbul, Turkey

“Our happiest moments as tourists always seem to come when we stumble upon one thing while in pursuit of something else." — Lawrence Block

I arrived at the airport quite early this evening for my 11pm flight to Baku. It was cold and rainy in Istanbul today, and I had a hard time shaking the chill, even in coffee shops and museums. The day started off with a bang as I explored Topkapi palace, where sultans, viziers and concubines lived for centuries. I started off visiting the Harem, and while it was beautifully tiled with amazing ceilings and decorations, etc., I just couldn’t help shaking the feeling that there was something very, very wrong about this place. My little Lonely Planet guidebook mentions one sultan, who was rumored to put all 280 of his concubines into bags and throw them into the Bospherous when he tired of them. WHAT?!? Somehow I couldn’t appreciate the humor of this, and was disturbed on a basic level. These women were trapped in this Harem that I paid admission to visit . . . kept there as slaves. *Shiver.*
On a happier note, I then visited the royal treasury where I got to see the Prophet David’s sword, Prophet John’s skull, a number of things that Mohammed touched or owned at one point, and . . . wait for it . . . the very rod that Moses used to part the Red Sea in 12th century BC. It was in surprisingly good shape for a wooden rod that was used extensively 32 centuries ago. :-)


Eventually I was too tired and cold to continue in Topkapi (which was not heated) and I walked up the tram street to find the restaurant I had been recommended for lunch. I had donor kebab on rice pilaf, which was very yummy (and some Turkish tea to try and warm up). Then I walked up to the Grand Bazaar, and strolled around, although to be honest, it was really a bit much. If you’re in the mood to buy carpets, jewelry, or leather goods, its probably an ideal place for you. The mix of tourists, salesmen, and wet & cold Anna was not ideal, and I left to walk back down the tram road.

At this point I found a coffee shop, ordered a cappuccino and sat and read my novel for over an hour. It was lovely.

As I grew tired of sitting and reading in public, I remembered that there was a museum that I had not visited – the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. It had not even been mentioned by Lonely Planet, so I thought it might serve as an interesting cultural detour. At the time anything heated and indoors was sounding pretty good. The museum had a vast array of ancient and falling apart carpets, in addition to many half-destroyed doors, tablets, and various forms of older “art.” I was not terribly impressed, but on my way out I discovered that in the corner there was an “anthropology” wing, so I made a detour. It was an exhibition devoted to portraying the life of regular people throughout time in Turkey. It had real-life size exhibits of the different kinds of housing, clothing, looms, work tools, etc., that would have been used by different groups. There was a section describing the different kinds of herbs and flowers used to create the natural dyes for the carpets. I very much enjoyed this section, and it made the museum trip well worth it.

I walked slowly back to the guesthouse, stopping to buy some roasted chestnuts from a street vendor. I had a lovely last chat with my host and he called a taxi for me to head to the airport.

On to Baku!

Istanbul (not Constantinople)- Happy 2009!

9:30 pm January 1st, Istanbul, Turkey.

"Don't tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you have traveled." -Mohammed

“The climate is delightful in the extremist degree. I am now sitting, this present fourth of January, with the windows open, enjoying the warm shine of the sun, while you are freezing over a sad sea-coal fire...”
Lady Mary Wortley-Montagu, 1763, on Istanbul

Note: I don't think its as warm now as it was for Lady Montagu. It was lovely and sunny today though and maybe high 30s.

Also: For some reason I'm having a hard time loading pictures to here and to facebook- I will try again tomorrow.

At the moment I am sitting in the terrace breakfast room of my guesthouse . . . without moving I have a lovely view of the Blue Mosque all lit up against the grey night sky with seagulls flying around the dome, and of the Bospherous with the lights of the Asian side shining. If I twist to the right I can also see Haggia Sophia, also glowing and lit against the night sky. Down below I can see a row of hostels, hotels and restaurants, all decked out with blue and white lights for the New Year, and looking very snazzy. I'm in the neighborhood of Sultanahmet which is right in the heart of the oldest bits of Istanbul, complete with cobblestone streets, ancient mosques, churches, obelisks, and the hippodrome. My guesthouse- the Terrace Guesthouse- is right around the corner from the Four Seasons, and for a much lower price I still have an excellent location. My room isn't amazing, but it is covered from wall to floor to bedspread with deep colored carpets . . . this added to the fringe that hangs from the bed alcove serves to make me feel a bit like some kind of ancient Turkish royalty.

I arrived exhausted yesterday and took a cab to the guesthouse from the airport (Along with the usual mushrooms, tomato, and hash browns, British Airways served lamb and scrambled eggs for breakfast . . . strange). Actually I took a cab to the Four Seasons, because that was the easiest way to describe the location to the cab driver. The doormen at the Four Seasons took very good care of me, even when I explained that I had no change to pay them with and I could handle it myself. The most dressed up doorman, Morat, insisted on carrying my larger suitcase to the Terrace Guesthouse himself, which was very nice. I was greeted by Doghan who immediately had me sit down and engaged me in a friendly conversation (by the way, everyone likes Americans again now that Obama has been elected!). I knew I needed to eat before I collapsed so I asked for a recommendation-- preferably for Kofta (Turkish meatballs) which I had read about in my lonely planet. Doghan recommended Selim Usta (Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim Usta), which turned out to be the same place recommended in the guidebook! It was maybe an 8 minute walk or so, and I walked passed the Haggia Sophia, Blue Mosque and many roasted chestnut sellers on the way! The meatballs were served with chili sauce and were very tasty (although to be honest I think I prefer the Swedish kind- soaked in gravy).

During dinner (at which I noticed there was a serious overabundance of waiters-- this has been repeated at every place I have been in, even sweet shops-- why are there so many waiters?!?) I started to get the spins from jet-lag. I took my leftovers back and passed out in bed. I woke up at midnight to the sound of fireworks! I had hoped to go stroll about before midnight, but having missed my chance I rushed up to the rooftop terrace to watch the fireworks over the Bospherous. People went wild in the streets- dancing, singing shouting . . . many terraces were shooting off their own fireworks or sparklers, and there were a few fancy black tie parties on rooftops that I could see. All in all there was much cheer. Then I went back to bed.

A delightful breakfast greeted me this morning here in the terrace room, where the sun was all but blinding. Cheese, cucumber, olive, tomato, boiled egg, bread, (chocolate bread?), and yogurt coupled with Turkish chai were a great start. I immediately headed to the Haggia Sophia, were I spent a great deal of time wandering around. I found it to be a very strange place-- originally constructed as a grand cathedral, then transformed into a Mosque, the UNESCO building is now a museum. The mosaics of Mary and Jesus coupled with the golden mihrab that points to Mecca was . . . strange. Beautiful, but strange. Add to that many tourists and the museum-type set up, and I would have to say that this was definitely NOT one of the most holy-feeling places I have ever been. Immediately after visiting Sophia, however, I headed over to the Blue Mosque which DID feel holy. You are required to remove your shoes, and women are supposed to wear a shawl on their head . . . many of the European women seemed to be ignoring this (even though there were multiple clear signs). It seemed quite disrespectful. The mosque was lovely, and walking around in stockinged feet somehow made the experience all the more better. This is the first mosque I have ever visited!

I also visited the tomb of the Sultan (there were many of them there), the Egyptian Obelisk, the Hippodrome, and some local shops. There were many very pushy men in this area, some trying to sell things, others offering "personal" tours . . . and some women were taking them up on the offer! After a pit stop at the guesthouse to eat my leftover meatballs, I headed out to see the Basilica Cistern. This had to be my favorite stop of the day, with its magical atmosphere and dark lighting.

I quickly headed back to the Haggia Sophia to hop on a bus that would take a group of English speaking tourists down to the Eminonu area where we would take a 2.5 hour cruise of the Bospherous. I know you are supposed to sail on the Bospherous when you are in Istanbul, but one look at the boat (and the tourists) and I changed my mind. Luckily I had just scored a free bus ride down to a different part of town! I strolled along the water, watched the fishermen and the crowd on Galata Bridge. Eventually I found myself to a sweet shop, Bolulu Hasan Usta Sut Tatlilar, where I had some of the best rice pudding I have ever tasted. Then I wandered down towards the Spice Bazaar, on the way sampling Turkish Delights and other yummy bits at Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir (they gave me some free of my favorite- chocolate covered-marzipan type confections), and then I purchased some baklava at Hafiz Mustafa Sekerlemeleri (which I am eating right now and are HEAVENLY). They are also known there for their helva (a cheese sweet), but I couldn't quite enjoy the sample I tried, so I stuck with the baklava (let me repeat, HEAVENLY).

I had a quick stroll in the Spice Bazaar, and talked to a very nice young man who warned me that the saffron was fake (and let me sniff the real saffron), and who was very upset to hear that I was divorced. He tried to sell me the special "love tea" to help remedy this problem, but I insisted that it was no problem at all, and I wasn't in the market for tea. :-) This same young man would not believe that my eyes were a natural color until I insisted I inherited them from my Polish mother (Polish/Polish-American, what's the difference?).

It was still only 3:30 so I headed to the Istanbul Archaeological Museums, which were great fun. The outside was swarming with cats, just like the rest of Istanbul. In fact, at times it seems there may be more cats than people in this city. People are very affectionate with the stray cats however, and I have seen many small piles of cat food sitting out on the sidewalk with cats happily noshing away.

I came back to the guesthouse to rest for a bit and then headed out to have dinner. I had a very good lentil soup, and a mediocre Iskander Kebab (lamb). The owner of the restaurant was trying very hard to convince passerbys to eat at his establishment, and it was almost comedic how he tried to fill every table. After eating I took a walk around the block and felt myself once again pursued by aggressive restaurant owners and carpet shop salesmen. The ruder, more aggressive ones act hurt when you walk away (as if you are being rude if you don't buy a carpet), but the nicer ones just say things like "Excuse me. Someone has told you this before? You are very beautiful," and they let you walk by.

Tomorrow I head to Topkapi Palace and I fly to Baku in the night!

My 2009 has started with a lovely day, and I hope yours has as well! Cheers! Love!

Oh!--- I was going to paste a youtube link to the They Might Be Giants song "Istanbul (Not Constantinople)", but YOUTUBE IS BANNED in Turkey!!!! I can't access the site. Crazy!